Sunday, April 20, 2008

Navigating Jazz Fest


Before there were cell phones, we were able to go to Fest as a group and have no trouble leaving our different directions to find our favorite food or music and then all coming back to center, checking in, and then going off again. Here's how we do it - even in the midst of 90,000 people.

[Dancing at Fais Do Do Tent.]

1. Morning music check in: we talk amongst ourselves about what is a must see (everyone circles) and then what are individual's must sees. We eat in between our must sees -- and if there's time and money, we also shop the various areas. More on that later.For example, for Friday May 2nd -- this is a really hard day because at the end there are two "10" acts, including Stevie Wonder, who has never played Fest. That should be an amazing tribute and love fest itself. But also, Terrence Blanchard's "God's Will" is the most beautiful , amazing music you have ever heard. He is a renown trumpet player from New Orleans who went to NY and then has come back in recent years. He played some of his requiem last year but it wasn't finished. I now have the CD and it is amazing, sweet, poignant and full of tragedy and hope. But, then, you will all have your own opinion of what you dearly love. Recognize that you will also hear things you never knew anything about, and sometimes it will happen by accident. You'll go to get food, hear something, it'll intrigue you, you will follow it and love whatever it is.

2. Learning the Fair Grounds

The New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival is held at the race track, and the stages are placed around the track. Note that it is "heritage" festival as well and expect to learn a lot about Louisiana, New Orleans and other interesting things.

First, you have to learn about each "tent" -- in the old days, they were literally small tents and very intimate (you'll see some historic photos around jazz fest and be able to learn how it started and why - - ask George Wein).

The Acura Stage: This is where all of the out of town headliners play, although you'll get some locals who have made it nationally. Such as on Friday, "Papa Grows Funk" is a local band we can see at the Mapleleaf Bar (in our neighborhood) likely once a week, it is a well known band.

Place to meet: facing the stage, right hand side, usually on the track, but if its not so crowded up on the grass.

Gentilly Stage -- this has had lots of names, we call it "stage one" as that was its original jazz fest name or whatever it was called the year before. It has headlines but in a nicer setting, and lots of local types.
Place to meet: facing the stage, right hand side, on the track, usually dancing.
Congo Square: Now called "My Louisiana" this is where R&B, african, dance, rap and hip hop about but anything can be here. Winton Marsalis (from New Orleans) has played on this stage. On Friday, Trombone Shorty is playing and he is not to be missed. Playing since he was a youngster, he is now maybe 20 or 21...I have three of his CDs. Zigaboo Modeliste who is playing earlier was part of the original subdudes.

Place to meet: facing the stage on the left hand side, either back by the speaker cage on the grass or dancing on the track.

WWOZ Jazz Tent: This is your straightahead jazz (Lisa will be avoiding this stage except if Germaine Bazzle is singing) and is broadcast live so you can listen in before you come on WWOZ's website (its one of the links on the blog). We frequently have our beignets here in the morning (or the couchon du lait or ?) when it's empty and quiet.

Place to meet: Somewhere near the righthand side, but we could be anywhere if we are sitting.

Blues Tent: This is a big venue with turf in the back and all kinds of blues and great music. Jumpin Johnny Sansone is pretty wonderful in the middle of the day.

Place to meet: if we're just hanging out, likely on the left hand side but not an easy tent to meet up.

Economy Hall: This has a dance floor and is more traditional, dixieland jazz witha second line. You should get some food in the middle of the day and just stop by to watch the fun. The Jazz vipers on Friday would be good to catch. It's shady.

Place to meet: in the back on the grass, you might see Jess (or any of us) taking a nap.
Fais Do Do (FAY-DOUGH-DOUGH) stage: this is the traditional Louisiana music like cajun, zedeco and creole....when in doubt, come here and dance. It'll always be good. Look for Jack backstage (that's Jimmy's daddy). He's 88 outside but only 20 inside, so watch out.

Place to meet: Near the goal pole to the left facing the stage or off the track, chatting with Jack. Or, dancing near the front.

Jazz & Heritage Stage: this got started with a native american area one year and then stayed...here you will see your Mardi Gras Indians (long past, you'll learn it) so don't miss them, and your marching brass bands, all great. When in doubt, hang out in the grass and dance here. This is more like the old, traditional tents from the past.
Place to meet: anywhere here, easy to see.
Gospel Tent: By far the best tent at jazz fest. When in doubt, we always end up here, and even if not in doubt, we end up here. Jim will be the anchor of the group, always in the back of the gospel tent (you can't smoke inside) and we freqently check in. If you have any questions about Fest or want to know more history, hang out with Jim at the back of the gospel tent and he'll fill you in. Paula Chance, our friend from Atlanta, will also be here at this tent and she knows all the words. I can see Victoria parked in here, and not just because it is in the shade and one of the coolest places(temperature and other wise) at Fest. It's by the shopping and by some food and the best beer tents (God is not stupid). This is all black or mixed race gospel with live music.
Place to meet: Anywhere but always in back of the tent all day long.

Allison Miner Music Heritage/Lagniappe Stage: These used to be two different stages before Katrina, but they don't let us into the main grandstand anymore so you'll get a mix here. "Lagniappe" in cajun means a little bit extra (the thirteenth donut). It'll be a mix of stuff including interviews so keep your eye on this. Oh, and there is an oyster bar here for those of you who love Gulf Oysters. You'll see Jack and I here in the morning when it isn't crowded.

Place to meet: in line at the oyster bar.


Kids tent (for fun, stick your head in, think grandchildren) and cooking tents, exhibits in the grandstand, etc. All worth exploring.
Bathrooms: There are portapotties everywhere -- carry a little purell spray and spare toilet paper but they usually aren't bad at the smaller tents. Flush toilets in the grandstand -- early they aren't crowded and later there are good and bad times to go.
ATMS: are everywhere at Fest.

Food: Everywhere -- two different set ups -- Food One and Food Two...make a list of good stuff to eat. It's on the website (link to the left). We'll have fun finding things for Celia to eat. I have a friend who is kosher who does all right (gator is NOT kosher). You don't need directions for this, just an appetite.
Shopping: Contemporary crafts, congo square crafts, heritage crafts and art is sold everywhere. Bring an empty credit card. Most vendors will hold your items until the end of the day so you don't have to carry them.
Getting there: there are shuttles from downtown and the French Quarter but get there as early as you can...it's lovely first thing (which is 11). You can stand in line drinking bloody Mary's from Liuza's at the track.

Ok, that's enough for now. Y'all just come on down now and we'll go to Jazz Fest. Have us some fun.






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